LAUNCESTON is dominated by the Tamar River, and approaching from the north along the Tamar Highway, zooming through haystack-filled countryside, it's a lovely sight, with grand Victorian houses nestling on hills above the banks. Approaching from the south on the dreary Southern Outlet, however, gives a perhaps more accurate picture of a dull but worthy provincial town. It's Tasmania's second-largest city, with a population of around 68,000, but despite its much-vaunted English look - especially in its many formal parks and gardens - only the surrounding countryside of the Tamar Valley really makes a visit worthwhile.
As the third-oldest city in Australia, first settled in 1804, Launceston has hung on to disappointingly little of its elegant colonial Georgian architecture. Existing examples are mainly utilitarian structures such as merchant warehouses and mills, now converted into museums, galleries or tourist attractions. What the city does have in abundance, however, are many fine examples of colonial Victorian architecture: the 1870s and 1880s were prosperous times for Launceston, years of mineral exploration spurred on by the mainland goldrush. There was a boom in construction and a number of massive, dignified public buildings date from this period - though, unfortunately, in most cases the often florid facades were simply attached to Georgian structures.
Launceston's real attractions, though, are its natural assets. It's situated at the confluence of the narrow North Esk and South Esk rivers, with the breathtaking Cataract gorge only fifteen-minute' walk from the centre, where the South Esk has carved its way through rock to reach the Tamar. Yachts and outboard motors ply the 50km of river, while beyond the western suburbs bush-covered hills fold back into the distance to Ben Lomond , an hour's drive away, and popular with Launceston's residents for winter skiing.
The City
The Brisbane Street Mall marks the centre of the city, which is arranged in a typical grid pattern around it. Brisbane Street, with the mall as its focus, is the main shopping precinct; heading east along the street, two other pedestrian shopping areas branch off it: Quadrant Mall and Yorktown Square. The city is small and easy to get around, but if you want some background information, join Launceston Historic Walks (departs Mon-Fri 9.45am; 1hr 15min; $11; bookings tel 03/6331 3679) outside the travel and information centre on Paterson Street.
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