The industrial port of DEVONPORT, which in 1959 replaced Launceston as the terminal of the Bass Strait ferry, the Spirit of Tasmania, is not the most inspiring first point of contact with Tasmania. As the ship makes its slow progress up the Mersey River, you might almost think you're arriving at a 1950s English seaport, but for the tin-roofed weatherboard bungalows, the brittle quality of the light, the bush-covered hills to the east and a McDonald's on the waterfront. As a jumping-off point for Cradle Mountain, the Overland Track and the rugged west coast, Devonport has developed a significant tourism infrastructure - car-rental companies, bus companies, camping stores and backpacking information - and though it's hardly a destination in itself, it makes a good base for trips into the surrounding countryside.
The City
Central Devonport is bounded by the Mersey to the east; Formby Road runs alongside it, while Stewart Street, at right angles, is dominated by a view of the bulky Spirit of Tasmania, when it's in port, and sometimes other colourful freighters. The Devonport Art Gallery at 45 Stewart St (Mon-Sat 10am-5pm, Sun 2-5pm; free), is a converted church with changing exhibitions and a small permanent collection of Tasmanian ceramics. The city centre is a shopping focus for departing tourists in need of last-minute souvenirs, and Stewart Street is full of gift shops selling tasteful wooden items, ceramics and jewellery. There's more shopping in the Rooke Street Mall, where most of the big-name chain stores are located.
South of the city centre, at 77 Middle Rd, are Home Hill (Tues-Thurs, Sat & Sun 2-4pm; $7.70), the National Trust-administered former home of Sir Joseph Lyons - premier of Tasmania (1923-29) and prime minister of Australia (1932-39) - and his wife, Dame Enid Lyons, who became a federal minister after her husband's death. The Tasmanian Maritime and Folk Museum , north of the city centre at 47 Victoria Parade, near the river's mouth (Tues-Sun 1-4pm; $1), has an extensive display of model ships ranging from sailing vessels to modern passenger ferries. The only really compelling place to visit, though, is the Tiagarra Tasmanian Aboriginal Culture and Art Centre (daily 9am-5pm; $3.30), located at the dramatic Mersey Bluff 1.5km northwest of the Maritime and Folk Museum, near the end of Bluff Road. The centre has preserved around 270 Aboriginal rock engravings (11 of which are on show), and a Display Centre provides generalized (and rather rushed) taped background information on how the Tasmanian Aborigines lived.
The Don River Railway runs excursions from Don Recreation Ground along the Don River to the popular surfing spot of Coles Beach (hourly 10am-4pm; 30min; $7 return). On Sunday, public holidays and from Christmas to the end of January the carriages are pulled by steam locomotives; otherwise, diesel power is used. |
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